Diptyque - Fleur de Peau
Diptyque perfumes are celebrating their 50th birthday.
"We traveled the world, from continent to continent, and world history was written right on our doorstep. We met and grew fond of many people, both unknown and famous, people of all skin colors and cultures. We observed and perceived intensely, gathered ideas, and were always good for a surprise. And we've stayed (almost) as young as we were back then..."
Despite its venerable age, diptyque has lost none of its vibrancy, inventiveness, or appetite for innovation. Curious, sophisticated, and enterprising as ever, the brand celebrates today both the 50th anniversary of its first Eau de Toilette and the launch of two new creations: the 36th and 37th additions to an ever-expanding collection.
Fleur de Peau
The scent of skin: Musk fragrances. How do you create a musk fragrance today that is modern and subtle?
On the subject of musk… the 1960s were also characterized by a huge wave of empathy, a fascination with spirituality and Hindu practices. Transcendental meditation, yoga, vegetarianism. People formed circles, recited mantras, practiced long, sustained "Oooommms," and embraced free love. Summer of love.
Musk: Sometimes natural (imported from Tibet, where it's still affordable), but mostly synthetically produced, most pleasantly emitted from the bodies of loved ones: navel, backs of knees, palms of hands. Olfactorily speaking, musk goes well with the soft suede fringed jackets that the boys wear so effectively against bare skin.
How does one create a musk fragrance today that is modern and understated? By blending it with a touch of iris, matte and slightly cool, long-lasting, with a strong presence. This is how glove perfumers used to do it, impregnating their leather creations with it. Add a splash of bergamot and Italian mandarin, a handful of pink peppercorns. And aldehydes. Everything intertwines, bringing each other to life. An unusual contrast (surprise!) to what follows, but rounded and smooth.
The musk substances, carefully selected by Olivier Pescheux, dominate, alternating between leathery, powdery, and fruity. At times a little wild, then again as delicate as a baby's neck. Beneath them lies ambrettolide, which offers a foretaste of the ambrette seeds, which in turn form the link between angelica and carrot seeds, very similar to iris seeds, also wrested from the earth. A successful interweaving. Transition to earthy tubers, stoic, iron-rich, almost exuding the scent of a wine cellar, yet extremely aristocratic and refined. Graceful Turkish roses enter the scene, just in time to enliven this introverted heart. The fragrance concludes with an amber nuance, which not only contributes its ink and iodine accents but also underscores the vibrant expression of a "Peace and Love" perfume.
© Out of love for fragrance ( hb )