Diptyque - Tempo
Diptyque perfumes are celebrating their 50th birthday.
"We traveled the world, from continent to continent, and world history was written right on our doorstep. We met and grew fond of many people, both unknown and famous, people of all skin colors and cultures. We observed and perceived intensely, gathered ideas, and were always good for a surprise. And we've stayed (almost) as young as we were back then..."
Despite its venerable age, diptyque has lost none of its vibrancy, inventiveness, or appetite for innovation. Curious, sophisticated, and enterprising as ever, the brand celebrates today both the 50th anniversary of its first Eau de Toilette and the launch of two new creations: the 36th and 37th additions to an ever-expanding collection.
tempo
Diptyque takes up the patchouli theme, (of course) in a refined form, expressive yet very subtle, designed by perfumer and long-time collaborator Olivier Pescheux. Three different extracts were used, all from the sustainable cultivation that Givaudan practices on the Indonesian island of Sulawesi. A long-lasting vibration, like the reverberating echo of a musical explosion.
The primitive patchouli imported from India, Kathmandu, or Colombo, crudely distilled and blended with simple fats, wasn't exactly the most subtle of fragrances, let's be honest. But despite its anti-moth note (the shrub's leaves were indeed used as moth repellent for a long time), this scent clearly exuded a kind of manifesto. Henna, kohl, patchouli: a trademark?
From the Orient, the young people also brought sounds with them: new harmonies, pacifist melodies. Sitar, tablas, wah-wah guitar sounds—an echo of the heartbeat of the (new) world. While for Jack Kerouac the most important influence of the Beat Generation came from jazz, the children of the post-war generation switched into flower-power mode with the quirky sounds of psychedelic rock.
You can feel the damp earth in a primeval forest full of ferns and giant teak trees, in the semi-darkness of mysterious shadows where ancient endemic species still live. Here they call it Nilam.
A powerful opening, woody, consistently robust (underlined by a mate absolute), almost camphoraceous, nearly green (intensified by violet leaves), with a barely perceptible hint of wild cacao. A powerful accent that lends brilliance to the other ingredients.
Pink pepper, bergamot, and fresh jasmine add vibrancy and color. An amber accord brings sex appeal. It's composed of clary sage (the herbal version of ambergris) and Ambrofix (an extract from the same aromatic leaves), which passionate lovers even use in its pure form: warm, velvety, with a hint of cedarwood, subtly animalic, comparable to silky-soft suede. A touch of musk is the finishing touch. The olfactory surprise? The tension between the tart, oily character of the violet leaves and the mossy (musty) facet of patchouli.
© Out of love for fragrance ( hb )